April is the cruellest month, breeding
Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing
Memory and desire, stirring
Dull roots with spring rain.
- T.S. Eliot, The Wasteland
This year, Khmer New Year began on Monday April 14th and continued through Wednesday April 16th...officially, at least. In many spheres, it’s observed for pretty much the entirety of April: most schools, especially in rural areas, close in the beginning of the month [3] and hotels and bus companies begin taking advantage of “peak demand pricing” around the same time, continuing through the entire month.
1. I’ve heard it’s the Peace Corps country with the most days off in the world, and quite possibly the country with the most national holidays...EVER!
2. I was informed by my trainees that there’s also a Buddhist New Year, but this is not a public holiday.
3. And some never resume full time schedules.
We run a tight ship at my RTTC, so I was limited to only two weeks off, one of which I spent traveling around the south western portion of Cambodia. Outside of our Pre-Service Training, I haven’t spent any time down south, since my site is on the opposite side of the country. However, they’ve got the only coast down there, and I was looking to get my beach fix before heading back home at the end of my service [4].
4. July, maybe?
Traveling in Cambodia is a bit of an ordeal, mostly because of poor roads, and it took a lot out of me, especially since I’m 6’4’’ and I’m usually cramming myself into a too-small space in whatever vehicle is available. But overall, it was a good trip, and it was the last major piece of traveling I’ll be able to do here. I had camera in hand, and was able to get some cool photographs.
Sihanoukville
5. There’s even an airport!
6. The part of Sihanoukville much more heavily populated with foreign tourists.
After a quick stop in Phnom Penh, it was back on the bus heading northwest to Battambang, a 300 km (185 miles) journey that routinely takes 6.5 hours. That kind of travel is never comfortable here, less so when you’re tall, wide, and have chronic knee problems, but I’ve gotten used to it as much as I can. I had procured myself an aisle seat and was enjoying having a row to myself [7] as we reached the outskirts of Phnom Penh when we stopped to pick up another fare. Since all the other seats were full, he was obviously going to sit next to me, but as I figured he was only hopping on for a short trip, I slid into the window seat instead of getting up and making him sit there. Just another stupid Nick mistake, as I spent the next 6.5 hours jammed between that skinny Khmer teenager as he sprawled out as much as possible and the window, in a seat with a broken back that precluded me from leaning against it. But, through a combination of core strength [8], leaning against the window, and holding on to the seat in front of me, I eventually made it to the Peace Bird statue on the southeastern limits of Battambang town with only minor neck (and ass) soreness.
7. Much to the chagrin of the driver's assistant.
8. Those feet-elevated planks are really paying off.
My vacation was over, and I was as exhausted and as broke as I’ve ever been as a PCV and had to go right back to work the next day. But, it was an excellent trip, and it was worth it. And, as a wise man once said, whatever you do, it’d better be worth it. My only Cambodian travel regret is that I haven’t been able to get to the northeast to see the mountains and forests and river dolphins and elephants and hill tribes, but outside of that, I think I’ve done a pretty good job seeing the sites around here. Barring the unexpected, a trip to Siem Reap for our COS (Completion of Service) conference and the final check out in Phnom Penh are the only things standing between me and Los Angeles International airport in a couple of months.
Until next time,
- N